In the last issue we dealt with the Three Rules of Sticky Back Hook & Loop and using High Temp Sticky Back in the rig and not the conventional Sticky Back Hook & Loop we can get in the store. It's allergic to the heat and just doesn't work well in the rig. This month we'll focus on using Sticky Back in various applications in the rig.

Kitchen:

Spice Rack on the Cupboard Door:
Put the hook side of the sticky back on the inside of a cabinet door. Cut a small piece of the loop (soft side) to put on the CAP of the spice bottle. This is consistent with our rules. Put the hook side on what doesn't move. The other reason is that when you go to open the spice bottle the soft side will be in your hand. When the spice runs out, just replace it with the lid of the old spice. Don't put the Sticky Back on the bottle. The paper label will tear off after a while.

Secure things to the counter such as pictures, plants, radios, lamps or anything that you are continually putting away, but use on a regular basis. Also use the Sticky Back Hook & Loop to secure TV Controllers to the wall or inside of a cupboard door.

Pictures
When securing pictures always put the hook on the wall horizontally not vertically. If you do things the same way all the time, which is Rule 1 of the 3 Rules of Hook & Loop - HAVE A SYSTEM You will be able to move pictures around the rig without having to change the hook to loop. Don't put a piece on each corner of the picture as it will become a measuring nightmare. Instead put a piece at the top and bottom. The bottom one is there strictly to stop the picture from banging against the wall when you are driving. The top one is sufficient in most cases to hold the picture.
Rule 2 of the Three Rules of Hook & Loop is to USE ENOUGH. If you put Hook & Loop on about 2/3 of the width of the picture that should be sufficient to hold the picture. Use it on the top and bottom of the picture. You don't want a picture falling off the wall. Reframing the picture will cost more than the picture in most cases and it might damage whatever it lands on.
Rule 3 is the most important rule of sticky back Hook & Loop, THE 24 HOUR RULE. When hanging anything, put the hook on the wall and the loop on what you want to hang and then leave them alone for 24 hours. DO NOT ATTACH THEM FOR 24 HOURS. This will allow the adhesive to set up properly. On flat surfaces such as the counter it is not necessary to wait 24 hours. In this case gravity is your friend, not your foe. Don't forget to use the High Temp Sticky Back as it is designed for the RV lifestyle and is not allergic to the heat.

Other Applications: Hook & Loop your cell phone GPS, walkie talkie, keys or CB to the dash. Secure small flashlights in those dark cupboards in the bedroom, under the sink or wherever you find them. It is handy to have a light right where you need it. At the front door Hook & Loop a small broom to the side wall so you can clean the steps. This is real handy and saves trips to the back of the rig to get the big broom. Secure a shoe horn in the same area if you use one. Things that have a home usually are easier to locate when you need them. This is also a reinforcement of RULE 2, HAVE A SYSTEM.

Bathroom: Secure pictures to the wall, water glass and soap dispenser to the counter. Hook & Loop the garbage can and toilet brush to the floor. In the shower you can use Hook & Loop to secure a soap dispenser system to the wall. Often times the two sided sticky back tape will fail. Use the high temp sticky back when it does.

Bedroom:The plastic clips that hold the closet doors closed will often break or you can run into the sharp edge with your arm and hurt yourself. When that clip breaks use Hook & Loop at the top and bottom of the door. Put a piece of loop the sliding door and hook on the door jamb. It will keep it secure. Secure your TV controller to the wall which makes it much easier to find. Isn't it amazing how that TV controller can go missing? This will help. Ladies, you can create a place to hold your chains on the inside of a cabinet. Put some cup hooks across the top and then hang your chains down. Observe where they hang and then put a piece of Hook & Loop hook on the wall at a spot where all chains will hang below the Hook & Loop. When you are ready to travel, press the loop side over the chains securing them against the door. This will hold them straight so they don't get tangled.

Next Month: Wonder Wrap, also called Reusable Duct Tape!

Separating electrical plugs can be a challenge, particularly when you are dealing with 50 Amp cables. Separating the 50 amp from the dog bone adapter can be a real pain. People stand on them, swear at them, use screwdrivers to separate them and generally have a devil of a time getting them apart.
The problem occurs right at the campground receptacle. We have to wiggle it out everytime we unplug. Each time we do that the prongs get bent a little bit different than the last time. Monday is different from Tuesday and Tuesday is different from Wednesday. Then when we try and plug into the adapter it is difficult to deal with prongs that are all bent out of shape. No wonder they fight each other!
The PLUG DOG goes over the prongs on the male end of the electrical cord and Hook & Loopes to the back. The PLUG DOG comes with a rubber handle. Now when we pull the plug out of the receptacle, it finally comes out straight and not bent out of shape. As a result the male side of the cord and the female side of the adapter start to work together instead of fighting each other making your life a whole lot easier. The men call PLUG DOGS stress reducers. The ladies call them language improvers! That's why we made the 50 Amp PLUG DOGS Blue, it's because of the language most commonly associated with plugging and unplugging your cables and adapters.
For 50 Amp users you need 2 50 Amp PLUG DOGS, one for the male side of the plug and one for the female 50 amp side. Most people also get one for the end of their 30 Amp as well.
People think that separating the 30 Amp plug is easy but separating them properly is not. We all have a tendency to wiggle the electrical plug out of the socket. Take a look at the end of the 30 amp and then wiggle it. The two main prongs are on a 45 degree angle. When you wiggle the plug you are actually torquing the prongs. Overtime they get weak and then one day they short out. Using a 30 amp PLUG DOG on the end of the dog bone will help prevent that from happening.
PLUG DOGS will add years of life to your cords and help prevent the cord from breaking at the water seal (the point where the cord meets the plug head). Replacing a broken cord is expensive. Due to insurance regulations which require a water proof seal, dealers will not repair the plugs once they are broken. Broken plugs can result in shorts and even can be a fire hazard.

What's more fun than sitting around a campfire and roasting a hot dog or marshmallow with family or friends? Wind can spoil the good time in a hurry. Even a 5 mph wind can ruin a great picnic, card game or socializing around the fire.
Wind can disrupt the nicest of days, whether you are sitting around the fire at night, trying to read a book, play a game, BBQ or sit by the pool. Even a small amount of wind can be so chilling that it can ruin the evening around the fire. The Portable Wind Fence was designed with these challenges in mind. It ELIMINATES WIND AS AN ISSUE! The fence is 5' high and 10' long and has a PVC framework that snaps together in minutes. Just pound the 3 pieces of rebar that support the framework(included)into the ground. Slip the wind fence material over the PVC frame and then put it over the rebar supports and you're ready to go. The special wind fence material disperses the wind and allows you to enjoy the outdoors in spite of the wind. It comes packed in an easy to carry bag and takes up little room in the car or rig. Check out the pictures and testimonials on the website. You definitely want to read the testimonials.

The DIY (Do It Yourself) Network does TV shows on all kinds of subjects including RVing. Gary Bunzer, better know as the "RV Doctor" and a contributing editor to many publications as the FMCA magazine. Gary is highlighting 10 of our products over the 13 shows they are doing this season. The show is broadcast at different times and days across the nation and you can find your local listing by clicking on the link and then going to the top right corner where it says "Get DIY on TV". You will find Gary very entertaining and full of helpful advice.

Thanks for your positive response to the newsletter. We will strive to keep it interesting and informative.

A question from Barb in Michigan was "How do I remove the adhesive left over from the other brand of sticky back that melted off because of the heat?" Barb the best thing I have used is Goo Gone which can be purchased at most grocery stores. Simple Green also works well. When removing sticky back Hook & Loop it is a good idea to use a hair dryer to heat it up a bit so it peels off easily.

Lou in Texas asked about the Hose & Faucet Connector. "I have had my Hose Connector for about a year and love it. Recently it became a little difficult to remove. What do you suggest I do?" Lou, lubricate the connector where the sleeve slides up and down. Like anything that has moving parts, it will occasionally need some lubrication. I use spray silicon and it works great.

Tony in Florida asks "If I put awning cinch straps around my awning arms, will that prevent the awning from coming off when I am driving? It unrolled one day and scared the pants off me." Tony, awning cinch straps WILL NOT prevent the awning from coming off. If the tube can turn, which the straps won't prevent, the fabric can unfurl over the roof of the rig. This is called billowing and is as big a problem or worse as having the arms come open. The only thing that can prevent the tube from turning is an after market awning lock that acts like a dead bolt and STOPS the tube from turning. If the tube can't turn, you can't lose your awning. It's that simple.